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When curating a list of London’s best dining spots, one might expect familiar high-end venues. Yet, tucked prominently among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu found in a outlying area of north London.

A Surprise Accolade

This little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. This honour has made the family completely astonished.

“I am totally astonished,” states a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their small place securing such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its original character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender quality.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this modest spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for below £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can run into many times that amount.

A Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am really happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is likely to echo beyond its own walls. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this culinary achievement.